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May 3, 2012

Un-bagged

Filed under: cameras,Photography — John @ 11:23 pm

About ten years ago Asahi Camera used to run a monthly two-page feature detailing the contents of professional photographer’s personal equipment. The right page had a brief interview with that month’s cameraman while the facing page featured a studio shot of the contents of their camera bag meretriciously laid out and numbered / labeled for the enjoyment of the reader. The issues I remember seeing these in were the ones lying around the Camera Club room at Senshu University when I was an exchange student back in 2001. That was over ten years ago so the gear pictured then was far more varied than the current standard of Canon 5D with Two Zoom Lenses and SD card Case that pro photographers are able to make a living from now.

The physically covetable and own-able aspect of photography- i.e. cameras and equipment- has undeniably been part of the game since the inception of the craft. There has been and will always be the gearhead crowd, those who find satisfaction in technical specifications and attempt to garner authority in sharing their opinions regarding the potential ability of certain tools. Specifications mean little to me; I honestly have no idea what an MTF chart is much less know how to read one. Technical specs aside, people obviously like to see what equipment others are using. A causal search on Flickr for “your camera bag” brings up 267 groups. Indeed, the most viewed images on my Flickr account are of pictures of what I (used to) carry when going out to shoot and my (then) current setup for shooting. I think that gear pictures are easily and widely enjoyed due to their extremely basic explanatory properties. There’s not much that needs any theoretical interpretation!

What continues to interest me about Tokyo Camera Style is that it doesn’t focus strictly on technical and optical performance and instead works as a investigation into the relationship people have with the items they choose to make part of their lives. This isn’t to say that people featured on the site don’t have their own reasons for choosing a particular lens or camera or format or film instead of another. But I do suspect that the popularity of the site is found in its broader and nonjudgemental view of this aspect of photography.

Since photographic needs, interests, and methods change over time I thought it might be interesting to share my current tools and the thoughts I have about them here.

a. Billingham Hadley bag. This bag is indestructible, goes with most anything, and is large enough and flat enough to comfortably carry home photobooks I find in the used bookshops of Tokyo. I switched from Domke to Billingham for these reasons. The extent that one can customize the insides of a Billingham via the supplied velcro-fitted dividers is an added bonus. I have the main compartment of my bag divided into three sections, with the center being the widest. It is well padded but I never set my bag on the floor of a moving train out of fear of what the vibration could do to the cameras inside.

b. Contax T3 with data back. This is loaded with black and white film. There are certain times when a small point and shoot is what is needed.

c. Fujifilm Classica. This is loaded with color film. There are certain times when a small point and shoot with color film is what is needed.

d. Business cards. If you come to Japan bring business cards and always have some on you. You never know who you’ll meet and not being able to return the favor when receiving a card from someone may cast you as less than serious. These are simple ones made at Kinkos from their most basic business card template.

e. Planner. I keep a pen and calendar/planner on me at all times. This one is from the Japanese stationery shop Delfonics. I much prefer pen to paper than fingertip to iPhone touch screen.

f. Ricoh GRDII. This is my second GRDII, one that may soon be replaced by a GRDIII. It has missing screws and is held together in some parts by tape. The magnesium body, while light and tough, does not take adhesive very well and the rubber original cover has long melted/slid off the body. More tape was the answer to this problem. As hard as I am on this camera it still does alright.

g. iPhone 4S. Since I have dropped cameras and seen people using iPhones with cracked screens after getting this phone I bought a leather case with a loop to attach a wrist strap. The Leica M graphic was cut from one of these stickers.

h. Leica MP .58 and 35mm Summicron Aspherical lens. This camera is the center of my photographic experience. This recently acquired Aspherical lens is so perfect in every way it simply boggles my mind. I never leave my apartment without this camera and it actually (rightly) spends more time around my neck than in the bag. It’s much easier to photograph that way.

i. Leica M2 and 50mm Summicron lens. My university photo professor purchased this camera new in the early 1970s and shot thousands of rolls of film over the years. Acquired through a gear swap (I hadn’t shot my 28mm in a long time), it keeps on flawlessly taking pictures as well as I can make them. 50mm is a focal length that I’ve never been very comfortable with. Trying to figure out how to best work with it has been interesting although this M2 isn’t always with me as often as the MP is. If my purpose for the day is to shoot, I’ll usually take the M2 as a backup / alternate lens body. For exposure readings I use either the meter in my MP or call upon a decade’s worth of experience shooting Fuji Presto 400.

j. 30 rolls of Fuji Presto (Neopan) 400 film. Plastic Fujifilm hard-cases, sadly discontinued, keep 10 rolls of film neatly together for storage in a bag. They are compact enough that I can fit three of them in this Billingham. Having 30 rolls of film on me doesn’t necessarily mean that I ever shoot this much- I haven’t shot more than 20 rolls in one day in a long time. It does however give me peace of mind knowing I probably have enough film if anything worth photographing so extensively should unexpectedly happen.

k. Tenugui cloth. Tenugui (てぬぐい) are traditional Japanese wrapping cloths which can be used in a variety of ways. I keep a few in my bag to keep cameras from knocking together when walking.

This is pretty standard for my daily out-and-about setup. I certainly don’t shoot all five cameras non-stop every day but it is good to have them available.
When I do my monthly feature for Nippon Camera I’ll swap the M2 for my Nikon D90 with an older 28mm Nikkor AF lens and include a plastic B5 size file case that I carry the model release forms in.

April 27, 2012

Pointing and Shooting in Hong Kong- in color

Filed under: Photography — John @ 8:11 pm

I mentioned earlier that on a recent trip to Hong Kong I shot some black and white film through a Contax T3 which got a bit of linear pre-processing (rather than post). I discovered that this was thanks to my inability to correctly close the goddamn battery compartment lid that is in the data back. (This has since been fixed and the camera is fine.)

Self imposed unfamiliarity was the only real goal I had photographically- color film, a quirky and somewhat difficult to use camera, a lively city I wasn’t able to “read”, etc. The color film I shot was the cheapest Kodak I could find at Yodobashi Camera. The pictures that follow were a few I found interesting on their own terms as experiments.

This last photo- – I felt like I caught a glimpse of ERIC’s China in real time, in real life. Admittedly he would have made a better photo of the encounter. The extent that I became smitten with Hong Kong was something I didn’t expect, and I plan on going back soon, with my regular gear.

April 22, 2012

A change of leather-scenery

Filed under: cameras — John @ 10:25 pm

Here’s a casual how-to on replacing the camera leather on your camera.

I got mine from Aki Asahi, a producer of many different types of camera leathers with self-adhesive backs. I had purchased some of his stuff once before, recovering a few Polaroid SX-70s and an old OM-1 a few years ago. He’s great to do business with- even ships before receiving payment (!). He sells a set for the Leica M6 / MP, and thanks to the aforementioned pre-adhesive backing AND the extremely precise laser cuts of leather that Aki Asahi supplies changing the skin on my camera was far easier than I thought it was going to be.

You’ll need the following:

- A camera.
- A new leather cover. This example uses the #4008 leatherette, a close match to the original M3 Vulcanite.
- A small flathead screwdriver.
- A small paint brush.
- Some rubbing alcohol. (pouring a little into a plastic film canister can help with this task)
- A smooth, flat surface to work. (I used the black plastic bag in the photo above)
- About an hour of your time.

Front:

This camera has been covered twice (three times?) during high level maintence/repair trips to the Leica service center. Each time the camera came back there has been a bubble in the leather near the frame preview lever. You can see it in the image above. I’ve seen many used M7s in the shops with the leather starting to curl and peel off from the edges. Come to think of it, I’ve seen Leica M9s already in similar condition as well.

Rear view- There used to be a full coat of thick paint on edges to the sides of the rear door. Not anymore and not for a long time.

The stock leatherette on the Leica MP is kind of like what you’d find at the bottom of a jacuzzi to keep people from slipping. There’s nothing wrong with it, really. But why not change things up a little? The worst thing that’ll happen (from my own experience) is that Shinya Arimoto will call you a geek (’tis true). Rather than your actual images, the only thing it will slightly alter is a tactile relationship your hands have with your camera. This, and the reasonable pricing of Aki Asahi’s wares was enough for me to try it out.

The stock leatherette peels off fairly easily- use a small screwdriver to get it started. It may tear in a few places, particularly around the lens and frame preview lever, though. Brushing some alcohol onto the remaining bits of adhesive on the body and letting it sit for a little bit made them easy to remove. But DON’T USE A TISSUE because your work will have just doubled or tripled with all the little shreds of tissue that you’ll have to remove afterwards. Rounding it all up with a small flathead screwdriver and removing it your fingers works best.

When totally naked your camera will look like this:

What follows was a process which didn’t let me stop to snap any photos. For a more visually detailed explanation of what comes next the step by step example on the Aki Asahi website is very useful.

For a Leica, first take the bottom plate and battery cap off before proceeding. You won’t need to remove any other parts of your camera, even the film rewind and frame selector levers.

Once ready, peel off the new leatherette from it’s wax paper backing and lay it face down onto a smooth surface that you can get wet with rubbing alcohol. Once it is laid flat, with the paint brush apply a liberal amount (I’m talking Ted Rall levels) of rubbing alcohol to the adhesive. This will weaken the stickiness just enough for you to make adjustments in positioning of the cover when applying it to the camera body.

For a Leica M, the leatherette has a hole to let the frame preview lever poke through. START HERE. Once that is positioned, wrap the leather around the rest of the body. Work it upwards with your fingers and check that the edge of the cover is tight with the edge of the top plate. Remember that little flathead screwdriver I mentioned earlier? Use that to gently press down the edges of the leather around any camera parts that it meets up against. In particular, around the lens mount and battery compartment.
Once it dries the leather will hold just as tight at anything from the factory.

I was rather pleased with the results- it looks almost exactly like what Leica is dressing up their Leica M9-P bodies in and is grippier than the standard cover the camera originally came with. I ought to mention the service price sheet at the Leica service center includes leather recovering— for 50,000 yen. That’s about $500 USD. Aki Asahi’s prices are far easier on one’s wallet.

Is all this really necessary?

Of course not.

Kind of fun?

Sure.

Aki Asahi supplies leathers for a whole slew of cameras- check out his store to see the full selection.

April 10, 2012

Scratching the surface of Hong Kong

Filed under: darkroom,Photography — John @ 10:14 pm

( U*P*D*A*T*E This is admittedly one of the least essential entries in the history of this blog. Really. )

On a trip to Map Camera a couple of weeks ago I picked up a modular data back for my Contax T3. The rear doors are easily changed and I was interested in seeing what it would be like to see what kind of work I’d make with those little numbers imprinted in the lower right corner. A week later, I took the T3 on a short trip to Hong Kong. Leaving the Leicas at home I loaded the T3 with black and white Fuji Presto and shot some color film through a Fuji Natura Classica and this weirdo Fuji HD-M I picked up from the junk bin at a camera fair.
Of the 12 rolls of Fuji Presto, 10 went through the T3. All ten of these came off the reels out of the wash showing several scratches on the emulsion side of the film down the entire length of the rolls. (The two rolls shot with the HD-M though, were fine.) This T3 had been serviced for a faulty take-up spool back in September of 2011, with similar, yet intermittent scratches from a few rolls before it went out of commission.
Since the film I shot with it post-repair has all been scratch-free, it could have only been the fault of the new data back. As I test I loaded an expired roll of color film and fired off about six frames. After rewinding the film and pulling out the tip with a film picker, I was able to see the same kind of scratches in the same place in the emulsion. Next I changed the rear door back to the original one and repeated the experiment with another fresh and expired roll of film. No scratches were to be found with this second test roll.

The culprit (other than my own lack of checking new used gear before traveling abroad) might have to do with the battery in the data back. The date function is powered not by the camera but by a flat battery which fits snugly in a shallow compartment under the metal film rollers that you can see by the red arrow in the photo below. (The stock film door is attached to the camera in this photo.)

What I think happened is that after inserting a fresh battery I didn’t tighten the two small screws that hold both the battery cap AND rear roller assembly down tight enough. Therefore the springy rollers pushed down with enough force to scratch the film as it was wound both ways first out and then back into the canister.

Eh, I’m not too angry or devastated or anything. When you mess up, you mess up. And Hong Kong is definitely a place I’ll be returning to sometime soon. What an amazing city. Color is likely the best way to go about it, anyway. Some scans of those prints will be up here soon.

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