_valerian

Bulk loading black and white 35mm film will halve your cost per roll. The 100 feet of Tri-X you’ll see in the pictures below cost 5980 yen. From this roll I was able to load 20 used film canisters with about 35 shots each. This comes to about 300 yen apiece. If you develop your own film, you’re looking at less than 350 yen ($4.00 US) per roll when all is said and done.

Here’s how I do it. (This will be written for someone who has never loaded their own film before.)

First, you’ll need the following: A bulk film loader, a 100 ft roll of film, scissors, tape, and used film canisters with about half and inch of film remaining:

The film canisters are leftovers from new rolls. After I’ve shot a new roll I use a film picker to pull out the film enough that I can pull the rest out to load it onto a reel for developing. The film picker lets me keep the canisters intact- I don’t take them apart at all. I leave half an inch or about two or three centimeters of the film sticking out the canister to make bulk loading easier. Since I’m loading 400 speed film I located canisters with the appropriate DX coding in case they are used in a camera that automatically reads the ASA.

The one other thing that you’ll need which isn’t pictured in the first image is this: A dark place to load the film into the loader. Some people use changing bags- I suggest using a windowless bathroom with a towel stuffed along the bottom of the door to keep out the light. Upon opening your box of film you’ll find a (taped shut) can that holds (in a black plastic bag) 100ft (30 meters) of 35mm film tightly wound around a small plastic spool. Naturally this can should not be opened anywhere but in total darkness. The image here shows where the film goes into the loader:

When loading you’ll need to remove the tape at the start of the film and then carefully thread the leader into the slit where the film will exit the loader. I trim the leader into a point in the dark to make this easier. Successfully completed (and trimmed) it will look like this:

Next, I trim the film that is sticking out of a film canister so that it matches the leader from the loader.

Next, I place some tape across the film from the canister. Make sure that half of the tape extends out on three sides like this.

Now is the tricky part- carefully line the film from the canister slightly over the edge of the film coming from the loader. A slight overlap is fine. Then secure it down and around with the extra tape off the sides. NOTE: you’ll want to make sure that the underside (pictured) is tight and does not get stuck when you begin to roll the film back into the canister.

Use your fingers (or the plastic crank that comes with the loader) to get the taped-connection into the cartridge. Then place the unit into the loader.

Bulk loaders will vary in shape and possibly size, but most will have what you see here. Make sure to reset the remaining film length gauge before you start. This gauge (the largest dial in the center) will let you know how much film you have left to load. The top left dial is the frame counter and lets you know how many frames you have wound onto a roll of film. Set it at ZERO before you start. I usually wind to the white triangle- 35 frames. The crank at the top right is how you physically transfer the film from the bulk roll into your cartridge.

Now’s the fun part where you wind the film accompanied by some satisfying clicks of the frame counter mechanism.

Once you’ve loaded your film into the cartridge, pull out the plastic crank and pop open the lid of the loader. Pull the cartridge out just a bit and cut the film free with your scissors.

Next, trim the film leader as you like.

Repeat 19 more times and you’ll have twenty rolls of film ready to go:

A few closing points-

Q: Where can get the film cartridges?
Most of mine are from rolls I’ve already shot. If you didn’t have enough empties lying around after you’ve developed your film you could try asking for a bag of them from your local photo lab. I’ve never had a problem acquiring a grocery bag or two full from the local shops in my neighborhood.

Q: How many times can you reuse a film canister?
Honestly, I am not sure. The only worry would be if something that could scratch the film would get caught in the felt around the opening of the canister, or perhaps if that same felt got thinned out from overuse it is possible that stray light could enter the roll.

Q: How long does this take?
I’d say half an hour at most. A lot quicker when you aren’t stopping to take photos of the process for your blog.

Q: Where can I get a bulk loader?
I got mine at Yodobashi camera for 8000 yen about 4 years ago. The current price for the exact same model in Japan is (I think) 18,000 yen– or $200 US. That is really expensive. There must be thousands of used bulk loaders out there- check online and places like craigslist. Or ask an older uncle or someone who was into photography back in the day if they have one lying around somewhere.

Q: Anything else?
Yeah- use a black marker to label your canisters so that you know what film is inside. The canisters seen in this introduction were all originally loaded with Fuji Presto 400 (yes, even the ones marked “Legacy”)- a film which sadly hasn’t been available in bulk form since 2008. I like Fuji Presto enough that I buy it new from Yodobashi Camera- in Japan it is about 400 yen a roll- that extra 100 yen per unit (compared to my estimate of 300 for bulk Tri-X) is worth it for me at this point. That might change though as Tri-X is a mighty fine film.

So there you have it. Like everything else about working with film on your own it is easier, more interesting, and generally more satisfying that you might have thought. Go for it!

My project of the past few darkroom sessions has been to print contact sheets for each roll of film shot this year. I’ve long been planning an epic post-development negative-filing post (part II to this one here) but for one reason or another haven’t gotten it together. This isn’t that post, but it ought to be a good introduction. Or at least an exercise for me to get my thoughts together.

Contact sheets! They’re a bit of work, and I haven’t actually regularly made them for 35mm film since 2004. When I moved to Japan I was more focused on making prints and figured that I’d always be able to catch up some other time. 3,000 rolls later, I’ve realized that is impossible- at least with the time and money I have available. But I also don’t have the funds to keep printing mediocre 11×14 images. The stack looked like this, almost two years ago. Having thus decided to save paper for contacts instead of prints that won’t be seen, the compromise was to print contacts for every roll shot in 2011.

Last November Hiromi Tsuchida told me to do just this– At a portfolio review at his place one evening he kind of got on my case for not making contacts and then went to a back room to return with a chubby, yellowed spiral sketchbook- he handed it to me and said that this is what I needed to do. Upon opening the over I was immediately treated to a selection of 8×10 contact prints of negatives shot during his Counting Grains of Sand series. Actually, one of the things that kept me from contact printing was the headache of how to organize everything and how to physically file it. Back when I was a student in Japan in 2001-2002 I printed on 8×10 paper and filed the prints in cheap plastic A4 sized clear files. The paper I use now is 10×12, a size that accommodates the negative file sheets which I currently use better than 8×10. However, the B4 sized files that would hold these are quite expensive. I mentioned this to Mitsugu Ohnishi about a week ago and he said that gluing contacts into a spiral scrapbook is exactly how I should be doing taking care of this. Turns out this is what every student from the Tokyo School of Photography was (and is still) instructed to do. Makes sense because both men were graduates of, and teachers at, that very school. Onishi explained that you don’t do contacts for anyone else but yourself so it doesn’t have to look good-it just has to work. And putting them in a slightly-larger-than-the-photopaper sized scrapbook allows one to write notes in the margins at will. Long story short, this is what I am going to do.

Honestly though, filing negatives is something I’m only somewhat good at. In 2004 I labeled the first negative sheet I shot in Japan with a “1″ and then the next was “2″. And so on. That works fine until you have to find a negative for a show. In 2007 for the Konica Minolta exhibition I ended up going through a thousand or so negative files, frame by frame, to find 20 particular negs that I printed for my portfolio submission- pictures printed over the course of 3 years. Since then I have been collecting negatives for exhibited prints in concise, non-chronological order.

For general filing, things are only roughly arranged by the date the film was shot. I’m not a stickler for getting negatives in order by day but only by month. Chronological accuracy is swapped for ease of handling- I figure in the long run as long as they are close enough, the system will be good enough. If I shot 7 rolls on one day they’ll be grouped together but other than that, it’s fairly relaxed. It’s not quite as if there’s a mob of future curators out there who will be in charge of managing the massive multi-continent retrospective of my photographic oeuvre after I’m gone. Scrapbooks it is.

What I plan on doing now is matching 300 contact sheets with 300 loose negative files. And then number them. It’s actually not a bad way to wind down the day.

Now for the part where I tell you what I learned from printing and looking at contact prints in the past 2 months:

I spent the past several years looking through negatives for the frames that interested me most with a loupe while hunched over a light-box. For the most part, I think I found what I was looking for. But with a contact print you are able to glance at everything at once- and suddenly the focus has been shifted from looking for individual pictures to simply seeing all of the pictures. And they are pictures, not negatives. It’s been enlightening to starkly see personal trends appear while flipping through pages, repeated themes/pictures that pop up whether you want them to or not– (if I never take another boring photo of people crossing the street towards me again I will be a happy man)– but also by seeing the misses so clearly (as opposed to simply flashing past through them with a loupe) I’ve been able to get a handle on framing issues I want to address in future exposures.

I’ve got a couple more sheets to make- the bulk of one more darkroom session, and then I’ll be off to Sekaido for a slew of scrapbooks and glue.

As for the technical aspects of the process:

1. I file “standard” negs in the cheap Fujifilm negative sheets at Yodobashi Camera. 1500 yen for 100. These get filed in King Jim series 2-hole B4 horizontal office binders.

2. I file “non-standard” (by theme) in the more expensive and less milky contact sheets made by Hakuba and file those negatives in Hakuba brand 32-hole plastic archival binders.

3. I print with my standard set of chemicals in my darkroom. (Papitol, Fujifilm stopbath acid, Kodak Fixer, bathtub wash) 4L of Papitol developer will handle 50 sheets of paper. So will a bag of Kodak fixer- – I do my contact print sessions in counts of 50. I can do 100 in a day but only if I can budget a good 8 hours straight. Evening sessions after work are manageable as the concentration needed for actual printing is negated and you just really only need stamina to keep placing glass on negative sheets and hitting the exposure button on the timer for the enlarger.

4. I print on Oriental paper. This places me in an awkward position when someone asks “What kind of paper do you print on?” and I truthfully have to say “Orinetal” but I am not mildly racist as it is an actual company, which unlike SOME COMPANIES, (glaring in your direction, Fujifilm. You and your gorgeous black and white fiber papers you are probably going to cut because you don’t make an effort to share them with the rest of the world), sells their paper abroad. I buy their 50 sheet pack RC based 10×12 paper. At 4000 yen it is the most cost effective choice when compared to Ilford and Fuji papers. More bang for your buck, so to speak. Or yen. That has a bit more bang at the moment.

5. That’s about it. I do place a small strip of black plastic cut from a photo paper bag along the edges of the negatives over the paper before I expose them under the enlarger. This leaves me with a white space to write information about the rolls, including my new numbering method: I think January 1st 2011 will read 11-1 with the next being 11-2, and so on.

6. What do you do with your contact prints? How do you file them? Any suggestions or a dialogue on this in the comments would be quite welcome.